Using power to weight ratios is a good method of predicting the potential performance of a given package. While this will many times be listed as an actual ratio, the numbers that are far easier for us to understand is “pounds per horsepower”.

So how do today’s current muscle sleds stack up against each other? The following chart, supplied by Ski-Doo, lists the pounds per horsepower (power to weight) of each of the sled’s that are considered to be FAST in stock form. Since no model year designations are given on this chart, do not make assumptions as to the model year of each machine listed.

(While the following information provided by Black Magic Racing is aimed at Arctic Cat riders, it pretty much applies to all Comet, Polaris, Yamaha and Arctic clutches.)

There are some things on your sled that should be checked on and/or repaired before the season starts. One of the major components that should be looked at are the drive and driven clutches.

The big power and big torque of the newer sleds basically tear up the primary clutch. The weights in the clutch nowadays are so heavy, that one of these would equal the weight of both, three years ago. Only problem is, the bushing that is responsible for keeping the weight aligned and moving freely, is basically the same material used in the lighter weights. This is where you need to investigate.

Remove the drive clutch from the sled, set it on the bench, remove the clutch cover, (carefully), and with the sheaves in the closed position, lift and attempt to move the weight from side to side. If there is excessive movement, the weight bushings need to be replaced.

One of the finer skills snowmobilers acquire is how they go about starting engines in very cold temperatures. Normally, the engine is so stiff that even electric starters are not able to do the job if you just go out and crank the key.

One tactic is to remove the drive belt, removing the drag on the primary caused by a rock hard belt. Warming up the drive belt and re-installing it after the engine fires is a good one, just be careful to not rev the engine above idle without the belt installed!

Don’t just walk up to the sled and turn the key or pull on the rope as hard as you can. All of the parts are stiff and there will be great resistance. All of that injection oil is sitting in the bearings and cylinders and acts like glue. Give the rope a few gentle pulls with the ignition off, very slowly and all the way through, to gently loosen up the engine. This works good for the electric start sleds too, so when you do give ‘er the juice it is easier to start.

Fresh winter fuel is also critical if you’re going to get any vaporization to occur. Old fuel or summer gas just won’t cut it. If this is your first ride of the year, then plan on getting fresh gas to get it started. Old gas doesn’t vaporize worth a darn at cold temps.

Anything you can do to warm the engine will also help. Sunlight, heated blanket, removing the battery and warming it, coolant heaters, block heaters, they’re all good. Oil selection becomes critical also, make sure your oil has a pour point well below the temps you’re in.

When you do get the engine loosened up and decide it’s time to start it, you want to spin it as fast as possible. This means robust pulls on the rope when you’re serious about getting it fired.

When the sled does fire, let it warm up until the cylinders are slightly warm to the touch. Be careful to not let it idle too long, it can over heat! Also be weary of slushy coolant, we’ve seen this happen at temps below –40.

Try very hard not to use things like starting fluid, you’re usually far better off (safer) to just warm the sled up somehow. A dry set of plugs work better than a frosty set or wet ones, so remember the basics of strong spark, atomized fuel and compression to get it going. You can wet the plugs easily with raw fuel and go from needing choke to being flooded.

With the vast assortment of go-fast parts and accessories offered for every make and model of snowmobile, how do you go about deciding which parts or accessories are best for you and your machine? What fits your needs most appropriately? The answer is one only you can provide. You’re the one that has to live with your sled every day you ride.

The first step is to determine what you have right now, and then assess what you would like to improve, along with any tradeoffs you’re willing to make to gain the things you want more of.

While this sounds easy, it usually isn’t. There are a host of components that will indeed make your sled faster, but many times at the expense of long term durability or reliability. Some parts are aimed at very specific applications, and while they enhance the performance for a particular use, they often do not work as well in some other, less important area of consideration.

You also want to realize the difference between items intended for race applications and those designed for year-long use on public trails. People don’t drive all-out race cars on the street, and they don’t ride full-mod race sleds on the trail. Excessive noise is the primary disqualifier, but most race engines simply can’t last the thousands of miles a typical trail sled can see in one season.

There is also a difference between parts that fit your sled and those that actually improve your sled. How much testing has the part or package seen on your particular model? How many others have installed the part on a sled like yours? What are the trade-offs involved? What is the return policy? Warranty policy? How comprehensive are the instructions (if any)?

Vehicle accessorization is all about style, passion and performance. Carefully selected products can greatly enhance your snowmobiling experience, and allow for customization of your machine to better match your own personal desires and type of use. Many times it amounts to replacing less expensive (mass produced) components with higher grade ones, manufactured to more exacting tolerances or from improved materials and processes. Whether an attempt to create a vehicle that reflects your personal lifestyle and image or an all-out attempt at simply improving the function, customization of your snowmobile is a large part of what makes the sport so much fun.

Snowmobilers are not exactly the kind of crowd that one would expect to approach about a subject like hand lotions, but we’re going to take a stab at it because of a product we’ve discovered that’s so good you need to know about it. If you’ve ever spent a day swapping the brass (changing jets) and know what kind of damage the gas does to your hands, then maybe you’ll listen!

There’s this stuff called “Gloves In A Bottle” that bonds to the outer layer of skin and turns it into what amounts to an invisible pair of gloves. This layer of protection keeps moisture-robbing irritants out while helping to keep your skin’s own natural moisture in. Pardon the expression, but this stuff pretty much amounts to a condom for your hands.

Normally, bad stuff sucks the natural oils right out of your hands, and this is what happens when they get all dry and cracked after changing jets. Normal hand lotions try to replace your natural oils with artificial moisture, but they don’t penetrate the multiple layers of skin and come right off as soon as you wash your hands or touch something.

Now we shouldn’t have to tell you why you want your hands moist and supple instead of hard and dry. If you plan on doing anything with them that requires a soft, delicate touch (we’re not talking sleds here) then you should be savvy to what we’re getting at.

This product works wonders for elbows and knees that usually end up pretty rough, and can be found in many pharmacies and garden shops (this is where we learned about it) as well as art supply stores. They’re just figuring out it works for guys too, but, again, guys are kind of a hard sell for skin care products. Visit www.glovesinabottle.com to see what this is all about.

Now that we have a couple of years under our belts with the new high performance four-stroke snowmobiles, one of the most profound differences that we didn’t originally expect or anticipate was the major difference in break in period. The four cylinder RX-1, for example, really doesn’t start to loosen up and break in for something like 1000 miles! Anyone who performed dyno testing of an RX-1 when fairly new and then again after 1000-1500 miles should be able to quantify this in terms of actual horsepower, but the fact is these new engines do require a much longer break in period and a more faithful procedure to dimensionally stabilize the internal parts (pistons and cylinders especially). During this time, the internal parts will wear and polish themselves to correct operating clearances, as well as reaching thermal stability.

While Yamaha actually indicates the RX-1 engine can be operated normally after 300 miles, the engine will continue to loosen up and work better during the first 1000 miles for sure, and even longer. Prolonged operation above 6000 RPM for the first 100 miles is discouraged, as is continuous operation at a single throttle position. This ceiling is raised to 8000 RPM during miles 100-300, where continuous operation above this engine speed is discouraged.

Despite your best efforts at preparation, there will be days you find yourself in new territory or off the end of your trail map that you’re carrying. Our test staff has found this to occur more often than they’d like to admit, never knowing for sure some days where the route will lead them.

So when you find yourself standing at an intersection looking at a new trail map for the first time and you realize you don’t have that map in your pocket, whip out your digital camera. At least one in your group should have one! Take a good photo (or several) of the trail map that is posted at the intersection. That way, you have a “copy” with you for the rest of the day. If, in a pinch, you need to figure out which way to turn next, you can get out the digital camera, display the map image, and through the wonderful world of digital electronics, zoom in on the area in question and figure out your next move.

This has proven to save much time and effort when exploring new territory. Sometimes a map is only posted at select intersections, or at a trail head or parking area for example. Even if you carry a GPS, having a current copy of the local trail map on hand will save time and maybe keep you from running out of gas or counting candy bars and matches. (Every group should also carry a mapping GPS like a Garmin Vista, a small handheld unit with an internal compass that works while standing still.)

We’ve even had the occasion where we had a map with us, but another group did not have the map and was in need of directions. Since we didn’t have an extra map with us, we told them to get their digital camera out so they’d at least have a “digital” version of the map.

Now why doesn’t somebody put together a set of electronic trail maps for a select area and distribute them as JPGs or something that could be displayed on a handheld, like a digital camera. No need to carry a stack of paper maps, you could have a good chunk of riding areas all there in your camera when you need them………

One of the most frequently ignored areas of performance on today’s snowmobiles is the hydraulic brake system. Hydraulic brakes definitely reduce the amount of effort required to get a sled to slow down compared to the old cable-actuated systems, but they are not a service-free system. Which begs us to ask the question, have you ever had the brake fluid replaced on your snowmobile? Has it ever been bled? And it’s how old?

Each snowmobile manufacturer will provide their specifications as to frequency of total brake fluid replacement, and these recommendations should be followed for maximum brake system effectiveness. As we reach the higher levels of performance, many high-end riders will have their brake system bled for two reasons; first, and most common, is to remove any air bubbles in the system. Air is compressible, and its presence in the brake system results in a spongy feeling lever.

The second purpose of bleeding brakes is to ensure the hydraulic system remains free of moisture. All glycol-based brake fluids are hydroscopic, meaning they absorb water. Even the smallest amounts of water absorbed into the system will dramatically lower the boiling point of the brake fluid. Frequent bleeding of the brakes purges the system of contaminated fluid, reducing the possibility of unexpected brake failure. This is more of an issue with race sleds and those that require frequent and heavy use of the brakes, as in mountain sleds that see steep inclines and heavy use of the brakes, but any sled fitted with hydraulic brakes can suffer unexpected loss of braking if the fluid is ignored. The water in the fluid turns to steam, and the brakes can simply fade to the point of “lever to the bars”. This is a very serious situation, thus the need to be aware of brake fluid contamination.

At a minimum you should be visually inspecting the brake fluid, which should appear clear to golden in the master cylinder. A cloudy, murky or muddy appearance indicates the presence of contaminants and/or water. Be sure to use ONLY the proper brake fluid as specified by the manufacturer to avoid compatibility issues and to maintain as high of a boiling point as was designed into the system.

Any sled over a couple years old would benefit from a bleeding as a precautionary measure. Dealers we contacted stated every 2500 miles or two years is a good point to be doing preventative service, but be warned that most factory service manuals state the brake fluid should be replaced annually! Sleds used in extreme environments where braking is heavy and frequent should be doing this at least annually. If your brakes should ever feel spongy, the system should be inspected immediately by a qualified technician. Point is, don’t just forget about your hydraulic brake system on your snowmobile.

Make no mistake, a bunch of us will be greeted by plugged pilot jets when we go out and try to fire up our sled for the first time this fall. Fuel related issues continue to be a problem when storing vehicles, snowmobiles included. Sleds (and engines that sit during the summer) seem to be more prone to this due to the higher humidity levels and heat of the summer months. This is despite efforts to use some form of fuel stabilizer, that doesn’t work all of the time with the wide variety of fuel mixtures mandated across the country (something like nearly 25 different types!).

The low speed fuel jet, the pilot jet, is the most often victim of fuel problems. This jet has very small passages, and when restricted or plugged, the sled may not even idle, or doesn’t run very well at low engine RPMs, but may seem to work OK as the throttle is opened. This will likely be even more of a problem on the carbureted four-strokes that use pilot jets which are 1/2 to 1/3 of the size of two-strokes!

Many times for storage the owner will run the engine out of gas, thinking he just sucked the carbs dry. Almost. There remains a small amount of fuel in the bottom of the float bowl, down below where the main jet reaches. This remaining fuel dries up, and can leave a flaky residue at the bottom of the float bowl. When you come along and pour in some fresh premium, this residue is dislodged and then can block just about any of the jets.

The remedy? Be prepared to drop your float bowls and clean your carbs, regardless of what measures you took last spring. Fuel related issues like this are one of the biggest reasons for engine service, and this holds true across all products lines (bikes, sleds, marine, whatever) when fuel is left to sit for months.

We continue to have good luck avoiding most of these issues with the use of Fitch Fuel Catalysts in everything from lawn mowers to snow blowers, and now have one in every gas can. These small cages with some sort of metal inside act like a mini-refinery, helping to keep the gas fresher, longer.

OEM manufacturers and dealers would like you to think so, but it’s not that cut and dry. There is a very fine line here; while you may be led to believe that your machine’s warranty is void if any (unauthorized) modifications are made to it, the reality is warranty coverage can be denied ONLY if the part in question actually CAUSED the damage or malfunction for which warranty coverage was sought.

However, damage resulting from the removal of parts, improper repairs, service, maintenance, modifications, or use of parts not manufactured by the OEM or approved for the vehicle in question will NOT be covered under your warranty! But just because you make a modification does not AUTOMATICALLY render your warranty void, and this is where one usually gets into a pissing match.

We view these strong-arm tactics as little more than an attempt at intimidation than anything else. According to Christopher Kersting of the Specialty Equipment Manufacturers Association (SEMA), consumers are protected by the Magnusson-Moss Act. This federal law that states warranty coverage can NOT be denied by a vehicle dealer or manufacturer simply because non-OEM parts and accessories have been installed. Again, warranty coverage can be denied only if the part in question actually caused the damage or malfunction for which warranty coverage was sought. Kersting states a “cause-and-effect” relationship must exist, and the burden of proof rests not with the vehicle owner but with the manufacturer or dealer.

This is the exact same law that allows you to use whatever injection oil you want to, but be warned, if you try to file a warranty claim for damage that is lubrication related, don’t be surprised when you are denied!

Engine mods and track studding are where we see conflicts most often. A guy installs go fast parts and the engine goes down. If the parts caused the failure, warranty can be denied. But if you’re told the warranty is denied simply because you made mods, we have a problem!

Now for some common sense. Many (not all) warranty claims being made of this nature are a matter of outright and deliberate dishonesty. For example, some guy knows full well his carb jetting was too lean for the very cold morning and sticks a piston, but quick installs the stock jetting and takes his sled into the dealer. “I just don’t know what happened!”, he proclaims. How is the manufacturer responsible for this? They’re not; the vehicle was calibrated outside of their recommended specifications. Or, you run the sled out of injection oil and stick a piston. You add some oil to the tank and take it in, hoping for a freebie. Did you think about all of the air in the oil lines that’ll tell the dealer what you’re up to? Hello?

A warranty is intended to “make right” something that is wrong. It is not intended to be a period of “free service”. An OEM knows how their product is supposed to work, as tested, in a particular configuration. They can not be expected to be held responsible for every possibility of stupidity during the warranty period. But on the other hand they can not take the position that any mod voids all warranty. Federal law protects you from this.

Just like insurance scams, everyone ultimately ends up paying for this through higher prices. The manufacturers are stepping up their denial of stupidity-caused and modification-induced failures, as they rightfully should, due to the increase in dishonest and bogus claims. Yet it is the dealer network that is supposed to filter as much of this out as they can, and many times they’re just as guilty as the consumer in trying to “get it covered”. Everyone involved needs to accept responsibility for their actions and not try to blame someone else.