Clean Pipe More Power

Clean Pipe =
More Power?
Have you ever heard of the theory that a clean exhaust pipe makes more power? Don’t laugh, we’re serious. And we’re not talking about the outside of the pipe, either. We’re talking about the INSIDE of a 2-stroke exhaust system.
Some race teams have found that the sound of the pipe indicates whether you’re going to make full power, or not. When they clearly hear that “ting-ting-ting” of a new pipe, the sound waves are traveling and reflecting unobstructed inside of the pipe. After a while, the inside of the pipe gets coated (injection oil, carbon) and the clean sound of the pipe is lost, and so is the best power.
What you’re most likely hearing is “shell noise”, a resonant frequency of the exterior shell of the exhaust system. When the inside of the exhaust is dampened, the shell noise is reduced. So why is the power output affected? Logically it should be due to a change in the temperature or speed of the sound waves. The “tuned” function of the exhaust is based on certain variables and constants, and the residue on the inside of the exhaust causes the formula to change. The speed of the exhaust waves traveling inside the exhaust pipe changes, and so does the rpm at which the peak power is produced. Problem is, your clutching doesn’t follow this change in rpm.
What to do? We’ve heard of those who will, when the sound of the pipe changes, resort to cleaning the inside of the exhaust. How? We’ve heard of using a pressure washer, or using a spray solvent to loosen up and dislodge the goo inside. Anyone with experience in this area, please share your technique!

 

What Every REV Needs!

When the REV hit the snowmobile scene in 2003, it and the Arctic Cat Firecat were the first sleds to locate their air intake in front of the windshield. Traditionally, the intake had been located somewhere behind the windshield or on the back side of the hood, relatively protected from snow ingestion.

The Firecat’s intake out in the nose and up on top of the hood was given the benefit of an “Outerwears” waterproof prefilter. The REV, with its intake up high along the left side panel, isn’t as prone to snow as the lower, more-forward location of the Firecat, but being ahead of the windshield there are occasions where a waterproof prefilter would really be nice.

That’s why we install one on every one of our REVs. You never have to worry about the OE filter filling with fine powder, or freezing up and blocking the airflow. In extreme conditions one might have to wipe the pre-filter off, but the snow and ice and water do not impregnate the surface like the OE filter allows.

You can get a REV pre-filter at any Ski-Doo dealer, and most aftermarket shops as well. Usually they’ll run about $20. Pull your OE filter out – notice the orientation of the cut and shape as you remove it – pull the pre-filter over the OE filter – insert into side panel, orienting the filter in the same manner as it was removed.

Airflow restricting, you ask? Supposedly less than 1% we’re told, shouldn’t be an issue out in the field.

 

Riding Strategies – No Gas, No Fun

When riding in a group (of any size) the group leader (or the group as a collective) needs to identify the sled with the least amount of range. Why? Because you need to know where your “point of no return” is, or halfway point. When your sleds start to run out of gas, the fun ends and the real work begins.

Normally, a group leader will identify how his gas gauge stacks up against the sled (or rider) with the heavy throttle, and will estimate how far out they can go before needing to turn around. Often, having to head back into town or to a gas station takes you out of the prime riding and back into traffic, or a less desirable experience. Not having to waste time filling and worrying about gas makes for a far more enjoyable ride. This applies to trail riding and boondocking – trail riding, mileage per tank is far more consistent. When boondocking, it is often a matter of how much playing you’re doing than miles logged. Ever notice how it’s usually the same joker that runs out of gas first?

This is why we like to carry a couple of extra gallons on as many of our sleds as possible. If these couple of gallons can get you all the way back in if one sled runs out, all the better. The group leader will start to get very nervous when half of the extra reserve gas has been used and you’re still not back in yet.

Taken a step further, it is far easier to ride two-up back into town than it is to ride three per sled. We know. This means you never really want any more than one half of your sleds to run out of gas. This should be your absolute limit, it’s ours. In extreme cases when we get lost (not often, but it happens – like the time we were off the map south of McCall, Idaho – you guys who were with on that ride know who you are!)

Each rider needs to know how many gallons their sled takes when bone-dry. That way, you can follow the miles logged and gallons consumed and have a pretty good idea on each and every day what kind of range you will have as the first tank is being consumed. For example, you know your sled takes ten gallons after it ran out and stopped.

It’s not uncommon for us to have to tow a sled in on occasion, often several times per year, but we’re limit seekers; it’s our job, to a point. We need to determine the range of a sled compared to others. In this quest, we have learned to stretch our rides to the limit, and past. Experience has shown us that having more range is always a good thing, because having no gas left means the fun is over, the exploring needs to be stopped, the group must turn around. Bummer. No gas = no fun.

 

Fitch Drop-Ins vs. Inline Units

Advanced Power Systems, makers of the Fitch Fuel Catalyst, have added in-line units to their product line. These in-line units are primarily intended for use in automotive applications, and in no way replace the drop-in units we use in our gas cans and recreational vehicles. Since we all own cars and trucks, it seemed logical for them to promote their automotive products to the same users of their drop-in units.

We asked Advanced Power Systems why they are now offering the in-line unit, as we figured this was not going to treat the standing fuel left in the gas tank, the main reason we use the drop-ins. The response was that many newer automotive vehicles will not allow the drop-ins to be installed into the gas tank. The in-line units treat the fuel as it is going to the engine, so you still get the catalyst reaction that delivers fresh fuel.

We’re also told buyers like to “see” their investment, and that the in-line unit is visible under the hood, where the drop-ins disappear. The in-line can easily be removed and transferred to another vehicle, while the drop-ins are pretty much in the tank for good. And, guys like to show their new stuff to their buddies.

APS claims modest fuel economy gains when using either style. We continue to experience the benefits of fuel that doesn’t go old or bad with our many drop-in units, and any engine fitted with a knock sensor and variable ignition timing acts as if a higher octane fuel is being burned. Seasonal units, ones that are not used constantly through the course of a year, all have the Fitch drop-ins in their gas tanks and we no longer experience any sort of fuel degradation. Every gas can, lawn mower, weed wacker, snow blower, any small gas engine, they all have one in the tank now. It’s really weird, but the catalyst acts on the fuel molecular chain length and keeps it fresh and ready to combust. In each instance, the unit fires right up after sitting for six, eight months. No greenie grungies, no stale gas, no wet plugs.

So, the in-line units allow installation on most any vehicle, and allow you to take it with you. They do not provide the “stabilizer” effect to the fuel in the tank, however.

 

Hyfax Break-In Period

You’ve heard about properly breaking in a new engine, and breaking in a new drive belt, but a break-in period for hyfax? Yep. The plastic used to make hyfax will last longer if you break them in properly.
Yamaha mountain sled specialist Tom Hartman (www.hartmaninc.com) tells his customers that the best way to break in hyfax is to run down an area with little to no snow for a half-mile to a mile to get the slides good and hot (not quite melting) and then dive off into some soft snow to quickly cool them down. This hot-cold sequence creates a glaze on them that will make them last 3-4 times longer. It is like baking oil on a pizza pan to “season” it. And, it works.

 

T-660 Torque Arms

Black Magic Racing took a look at the T-660 Turbo models and found that these sleds are not immune to engine movement. You wouldn’t think that a motor that big would even need to be bolted down! Oh yea, she moves.
They got a good feel of how the motor was moving, just like any other sled, up and back, basically trying to twist itself out of the chassis. This, as you may already know, really screws with the efficiency of the clutches, is hard on belts, and hard on the mounts and everything else that is attached. They quickly designed a torque arm, installed it where they believed it would be the most effective, and wham, engine movement was nearly eliminated.
In a nutshell, the 660cc 4-strokes are no different than the 2-strokes, they move too. If you need a torque arm, contact Black Magic Racing and ask for part number 70-1471 for $59.95.

 

2006 & 2007 Mach Z & Renegade 1000

For optimum performance and top speed at elevations below 2000 feet, a 25mm set screw (Ski-Doo #206 262 599) should be installed (with Blue Loctite) in each lever (arm) of the TRA primary clutch on the 2006 & 2007 Ski-Doo Mach Z and Renegade X 1000 models. The TRA clickers should then be adjusted to #2 or #3, according to your operating RPM. The target shift RPM of the 995 engine is 7850 RPM, no higher. This should only be installed by a qualified technician, following the specific procedures outlined in the appropriate “Shop Manual” for the model.
We’re told this modification is not covered under warranty, and that this is “the only modification allowed by BRP that will not void the warranty”.

 

Polaris 550 Fan Hop-Up

What’s one to do to a Polaris 550 Fan if you want to juice it up? Not many (if any) performance shops offer go-fast parts for the fan-cooled models, as most owners of these machines ride them bone-stock. Most, but not all.
SnowTech enthusiast Tim Roelfsema of Falmouth, Michigan tipped us off to a discovery he had made, and has implemented on a number of Polaris 550 fans. He found the OE part number for the 550 silencer was the same as XC models, which Starting Line Products offered a silencer for. He installs the SLP silencer for EDGE XC models, along with one of the SLP 4.5” Flow-Rite intake filters in the dash (replacing the tachometer blanking plate). The combination of the silencer and the intake mod let the fan 550 breathe easier, to the point that the main jets need to be increased two sizes!
According to Roelfsmea, “It hauls ass! Up to 70 mph it is as good as any 500 liquid, and really makes a difference. It pulls so hard now, anyone looking to make a 550 haul should try this.” Thanks, Tim!

 

Yamaha Drive Belts

Yamaha mountain sled specialist Tom Hartman works with modified Yamaha mountain sleds on a daily basis. He tells his customers to replace the very durable yet very hard OEM 8DN drive belt with a Dayco Ultimax 3 instead (#138-4432-U3).
The stock 8DN belt is very durable, but being so hard there is a fair amount of slipping, which creates heat and a loss of acceleration. This Dayco belt is a softer compound so there is less slipping and less heat, and it is slightly longer, making it easier to get a full ratio shift out (allows you to get the drive belt ride height in the secondary to the top of the sheaves while maintaining proper deflection.)
Hartman also echos the recommendations to properly break-in every brand-new drive belt for 30-40 “easy” miles where the belt isn’t subjected to excessive loads that will create excessive heat. Therefore, break in your new drive belts at a convenient time and place – before you’re way out in the backcountry and need it to work right NOW!
Hartman also suggests periodic cleaning of the drive belts – wash it in hot water and soap, a grease-cutter like 409 or Simple Green. Use a brush (not too stiff or aggressively) to scrub the belt sides clean (grip surfaces). Let dry overnight. This will keep the belt grip surfaces clean and there will be less slip and more grip (assuming the clutch sheaves are cleaned as well). This means less slip, less heat, more acceleration and the belts will last longer – much longer.

 

2007 Arctic Cat Panther 40th Anniversary

For 2007, two special snowmobiles commemorate the 40th anniversary of the Panther nameplate. Arctic Cat engineers resurrected the original leopard print (meow) seat material for these two special “Retro” Edition sleds. Both the Panther Trail solo model (shown) and Panther Touring machines with T660 motors receive a retro graphics package, special chrome-trimmed windshield and the ultra-cool leopard print seat. The end result is truly reminiscent of the good ‘ol days of Arctic Cats.

The naturally-aspirated T660 4-stroke is as rock-solid as you can get, proven reliable and easy on fuel and noticeably quieter than other 4-strokes. With rising fuel prices, this is one sled you can still rack up the miles on and not break the bank. You will be hard pressed to find a more durable and fuel efficient sled. Electric start and reverse are standard, of course, as is a truly functional windshield and a stout 12 V accessory outlet.

The 2007 Panther 660 Trail 40th Anniversary comes in Retro Black and sells for an attractive $6,999.