January 28, 2007
Dear Ralph:
When should I turn on and/or turn off the valve that lets the heated coolant run through the carb bodies? I know this feature is to keep the carbs from freezing up, but a riding buddy told me to leave it off unless I was riding in super-cold temps (like -20). What’s your experience?
M. Hamilton
I agree that the heated carb valves should be normally “off†and turned on when needed. There are two conditions that I have experienced freezing of the carbs; very cold temps when the snow is so fine and powdery that it gets past the intake filter (why you need a pre-filter) and when the humidity is very high, at most any temperature close to freezing. This is why Ski-Doo suggests to open the valve when riding in high humidity conditions.
Usually when the carbs start to get sticky you can catch it before the sled will die on you (usually due to the electronic safety system sensing a problem and kicking in). Get that valve open and get them carbs warmed up! How about if you don’t have the heated valve? Often, the heat of the engine will warm the carbs up to thaw the ice while sitting there for a few minutes, then you can add a bottle of isopropyl to the gas and in a matter of a couple of miles the iso starts to do its thing. Even with the heated carbs, you have to get the water out of the system, so using iso is still a good idea, even with heated carbs. I rarely leave for a ride without a bottle.
January 9, 2007
Sylvain Laflamme of Laflamme Racing claims the new M-Tech head is the most amazing bolt-on for the 800′s he has ever seen, PERIOD! Easy to install, go down 1 clicker on your clutch, fits all 800 twins, And it looks great! They also have some excellent Ski-Doo clutch kits available.
Laflamme Racing was started as a part time business 5 years ago. After 17-18 years on the race circuit, a position still held today as a member of the Ski-doo X-Team, Sylvain was getting more and more requests for clutch kits and performance inquiries. Business grew until he started doing only snowmobile work in the winter, and now it is a full time job.
At Laflamme Racing they trail ride 2000-3000 miles every winter, so they know what the customer wants and expects. Check them out for more info www.laflammeracing.com.
January 7, 2007
This is as close as you can get to a “consumer race sledâ€. It is very much a 440 snowcross (Zx) chassis with a consumer engine package – your choice of a Rotax 600 H.O. SDI or the Rotax 800 PowerTEK.
But wait, the Zx racer is calibrated for jumps the size of a house, how can it be “trail-able� This has been the cause of some confusion. When Ski-Doo let us loose on the prototype X-RS, it was a stickered-up race chassis with an 800 engine, so yes, it rode like a brick through the washboards.
We’re told this was only for photo purposes, that the sled the consumer gets in the fall will have C-36 HPG clicker shocks all around (all four) with 16 hi-speed and 20 low-speed compression damping settings that will allow the calibration of the X-RS to be set anywhere in-between being Adrenaline-like to being 440X-like. The end product should be consumed by those who want the closest thing to a race sled, chock-full of the latest tricks and technology, with the ultimate in compression damping adjustability.
Differences between the X-RS and the X-package include the C-36 racing clicker shocks up front, a lightweight and super-trick polycarbonate hood, 440-type handlebars, see-through fuel cell and race-style snow flap, a pre-drilled Ripsaw 1.25 track (or a pre-studded IceRipper) and several other details that make it as close to the Zx 440 as possible. Even the 440 pipe pre-heat button is in place, now used to activate the RER (reverse).
This is the most bump-capable MX Z REV ever offered to the masses; the 2007 Ski-Doo MX Z X-RS 800 PowerTEK sells for $11,099 and the 600 H.O. SDI goes for $10,349. Both were designated “spring-onlyâ€, so they will be in very short supply.
January 2, 2007
Dear Ralph:
I was wondering if you have heard of any problems related to faulty ECMs in 2004 Firecats. I have a 2006 F-6 and from day one when I bought it the speedometer would occasionally go crazy fluctuating, or go out completely. I was told to check the voltage regulator, which I did, and it was fine. So, my local dealer said it could be the ECM. The problem with the gauge was getting worse and worse towards the end of last season. Thanks in advance for any advice or direction you can give me.
Lizzie Miller
Arctic Cat did have some issues with the 2003 gauges, but they came back in 2004 with an improved version. If your problem was the voltage regulator, there would be other problems as well; like, the DC section of the ECM would be fried and the power valves wouldn’t work and the sled wouldn’t pull over 7,000 RPM, or all of the light bulbs would be blown. Nor should this be caused by the ECM. The gauge assembly needs to be replaced.
I am a bit curious as to why this wasn’t fixed immediately, under warranty, if your sled had this problem “since day one†as you state. Now, unless you have a extended warranty, you’ll likely be paying for the repair unless your dealer knows full well the problem has existed since day one.
January 2, 2007
The James Bay Frontier is located in northeastern Ontario; north of Temagami, stretching from the Quebec border in the east to Hearst in the west, and then north to the tidewater shores of James and Hudson Bay. Yes, THAT Hudson Bay!
This is the home of world class snowmobiling. This isn’t some half-hearted promotional scheme, these towns take their snowmobiling seriously. Those who have been to the area know what awaits them; names like Hearst, Timmins, Kirkland Lake, Cochrane, Kapuskasing. Many are legendary for their deep snow, wide trails and impeccable grooming. And, the lack of traffic. Once you’re out of the towns, you meet far fewer riders than in the states.
The James Bay Frontier is separated from the rest of North America, so to speak, by the “Height of Land†or Continental Divide. It’s called the Arctic Watershed. From this point north, all waters flow into the Arctic Ocean, creating the distinction that separates the area from other regions. The snow and cold come earlier and stay later – consistently. This makes for incredible snowmobile conditions, supported by a solid network of trails and clubs; more than 5,000 kilometers criss-cross the region.
This is the way snowmobiling is supposed to be. Not just a quick zip out in the country, just past the edge of a town. This is riding through the great northern wilderness for hours on end. You will find fantastic scenery and the thrill of riding places you’re never imagined.
For more info on planning a trip to James Bay Frontier, call 800-461-3766 or visit www.jamesbayfrontier.com and for up-to-date trail conditions visit www.tata-bestsnowmobiling.com”
January 2, 2007
Dear Ralph:
I have a 1998 Yamaha SX 700 with about 4,000 miles on it. Should I be replacing the rings, or pistons and rings?
Paul K.
Does it run good? Have you checked to see if the compression of each cylinder is within 10% of each other? I’d say don’t worry about it, these Yamaha triples really provided excellent piston and ring life. Many have 8,000 miles and more with no real need. Sure, you’d get a bit more out of it, but as long as it runs good and the cylinders are close to each other in compression, run it. Most times when these motors are apart with that many miles on them the skirt clearance and ring end gap is still within spec. Wait until you have a better reason to open it up, IMO. The crank bearings seem to go on the ’97s, but Yamaha pretty much fixed that after the first year.
January 2, 2007
Dear Ralph:
I have a l995 Arctic Cat 580 Powder Special. The sled runs fine but I have no head lights, tail lights, tach or hand warmers. How should I check for stator output? Or, is it the A/C voltage regulator? Thanks for your articles in SnowTech Magazine, they are very informative.
Rich Birlem
The first rule is to check for wiring shorted to ground (chassis or frame). It could be any power lead anywhere on the chassis, but normally this would cause an intermittent condition, not a constant “offâ€. Therefore, most likely the regulator is shorted to ground or has failed, or the stator has no output. How to know which? Unplug the regulator at idle, and do not rev the engine or you will burn out every light bulb in the sled. If the lights (and tach) come on at all cut the ignition FAST, then you know it is the regulator. If no lights come on, then it is most likely the stator.
