Vintage and Antique Snowmobile Event

January 30 & 31, Waconia Minnesota’s historic Lakeside Ballroom will host what is known as “Waconia 2010 Ride-In” this event is hosted by Midwest Vintage Snowmobile Shows, Inc.

Last year almost 6000 people attented with over 1000 old snowmobiles participating.  The event will offer a snowmobile show, swap meet, drag racing, grudge drag racing, oval and lemans racing, loud snowmobile contest, trail ride, silent auction and banquet.  This year the Waconia event will be featuring John Deere snowmobiles and also offer special cross country snowmobile show classes.

Participants are coming from coast to coast.  More info can be obtained at 651-649-4688 or visiting www.mwvss.com

 

January / February 2010 issue is in the mail

The January/February issue of SnowTech Magazine went in the mail the week between Christmas and New Years. Should be close to all destinations in the US and Canada. This issue was 100 pages. Along with traditional content like Service and Tuning Notes, Tech Shorts, Feedback, and Dear Ralph this issue featured an in depth look at Rotax E-TEC Direct Fuel Injection – For more than a decade two-stroke engine users and enthusiasts have looked forward to the day when direct fuel injection would sweep away the emissions problems and excess fuel consumption of their favorite powerplant – the technology is finally here and here to stay. Find out exactly how it works in this 4 page in-depth article. This issue also contains an article on Structural Bonding – the Future of Snowmobile Chassis Construction. Find out how Polaris actually “Glues” the new RUSH chassis together. New model reviews on the 2010 Sno Pro 500 and the 2010 FX Nytro MTX SE are inside as well. Read about how Gates Corporation is bringing new drive belt technology to the table in 2010. Turn back the clock and check out our vintage special piece by Hal Armstrong on the Polaris Indy. We also answer all your questions about Ethanol fuel and snowmobile use. In Pure Speculation our editors give you their best guess as to what’s coming down the pipe for snowmobiling in 2011 and beyond. Don’t miss this and much more in the best issue of the year. Subscribe now and enter “Jan/Feb” in the comments field on your subscription form and we’ll mail you out a copy right away.

 

Snowmobile stud patterns/ How many studs?

Dear Ralph:

When installing studs in the track, does it really make a difference which way the “V” pattern is placed? I know tracks have a particular way to be installed, but with studs we are just trying to get as many scratch lines as we can, right?

Tommy H.
Ohio

I always used to think it had to be a certain way, but in checking with the stud experts at Woody’s Traction they tell us the V can be in either direction on the track.

The V shape in Woody’s studding patterns is all about scratch lines. The more scratch lines, the more studs you have working for you as the track contacts the surface. The studs will be contacting in fresh hard pack or ice, not in the channel of the stud immediately in front. Generally, 96 studs in a V will give you 12 scratch lines, 144 studs in a V will give you 18 scratch lines and 192 studs in a V will give you 22 scratch lines.

And, it doesn’t matter where you begin applying the pattern on the track.  The important step is when you move the template to the next track section to continue marking the pattern. You must move the template and place it on the track in the exact way you placed it on the section before. Continue moving the template like this until the entire track is marked.

Check out WoodysTracion.com for downloadable PDFs and application guides for your particular model.

 

Adding Idler Wheels

Dear Ralph:
I was wondering what your thoughts are on adding the “4th wheel kit” and “extra idler” wheel kit? I snow checked a 2010 Ski-Doo Renegade X and would like to know if it is necessary to have them installed? Do they really make that much of a difference? Will they reduce rolling resistance by that much?
I previously installed both on my 2005 Yamaha RS VectorER. I believe the extra idler’s did help in hyfax wear by bridging the gap between the rear wheel’s and the front set of idler’s. Mechanically it makes sense. So why does the manufacturer not install them?
Paul DeKay
Ontario,Canada

Cost, cost, cost. You build 20,000 sleds with an extra $5 in there and guess what? That’s $100,000. Do that with ten parts here and there and you get the idea, I hope. It is usually that simple.
We are talking about two different things here, rear axle wheels and extra idler wheels. In my experience every sled needs at least three wheels on the rear axle, the fourth one is a matter of usage. If it is studded, then yes, the fourth wheel is really nice to have in there to prevent track derailing due to the added side forces applied by the addition of traction products. So, if your Renegade has three wheels and you will not be installing studs, it is more a matter of insurance but I wouldn’t worry about it. Any sled with only two wheels on the rear axle (like the TNT) needs the third added, in my opinion. Any sled with studs needs the fourth. That’s my opinion.
As for the extra idler wheels (not on the rear axle) then we have a different situation. Again it is a cost thing for the OEM, but also a weight thing. Yes, they hurt rolling resistance, to the tune of about 2 mph typically, and yes they help greatly with reducing hyfax wear. These should be installed on any sled that will see high miles or where hyfax wear is an issue. It really depends on the snow conditions, mountain guys will take them all off and never have a problem until the spring where the snow gets hard, then they fry the hyfax. In good snow you really don’t need them, but when the snow gets hard they are really going to save your hyfax.

 

Carburetor Drain Kit

Here is an item that every carbureted snowmobile, motorcycle, ATV and watercraft should have; a clean and easy way to drain the carburetor float bowls. A quick turn of the valve on this kit will purge your carbs and keep you running safe and strong. Why drain the float bowls? With the quality of today’s fuels it doesn’t take long for corrosion or bacteria to accumulate and restrict or plug the fuel metering jets inside the carbs. Water and contaminants also tend to settle out of your fuel. When your float bowls and watertraps get too full of these, engine damage can occur. This is a high quality kit; the valve body is chemical-resistant nylon with a Viton sealing ball rated at 125 psi. This kit can also be used as a crankcase drain. Most kits are only $29.95. Thunder Products 320-597-2700 www.thunderproducts.com