79 Tech Tips

Years of experience and miles of riding make some more knowledgeable than others. But, we can all learn from the lessons old timers have already been through. Some of these tips already may be familiar, and some may be real eye-openers. Most are a matter of opinion, and few are actual service procedures. But, here and there will be items of insight certain to save someone from skinned knuckles, save time, or answer a question or two you may have wondered about.
Sled Maintenance

# 1 – Keep an eye on the leading edge of the carbide runner. Every ski mounts the runners differently, and one major area of concern is the leading edge of the runner. Just think about the edges of trailers, crossing railroad tracks, and any other edge that your runner could catch on and the importance of having the leading edge of your runner well up into the ski should become very clear. People fly over the handlebars when their skis catch things unexpectedly, and many times it could be avoided.

# 2 – Grease all front suspension zerks every few hundred miles. Not because the grease is gone, but more so to push out any moisture that has entered the area.

# 3 – Pay special attention to the ski leg bushing; the one the ski bolt runs through. This bushing should fit tightly into the spindle without any slop or extra clearance, and should be lubricated so it can pivot.

# 4 – Make sure your ski runners are straight. This may sound stupid, but you’d be surprised at the riders we’ve seen monkeying around with front spring tension, limiter strap length and other adjustments because their sled is not handling right and they “just put new runners on, so that’s not the problem”. Anytime your sled doesn’t seem to be handling right, the FIRST thing you check is the runners; are they straight, are there any chunks of carbide chipped or missing, are the studs tight (do not over-tighten, they break off real easy).

# 5 - When you perform ski alignment, place a elastic tie-strap between the ski tips to pull in on them slightly to remove any slop or extra clearance. This way, you will be sure your final alignment will not possibly induce any toe-in. Any amount of toe-in is a bad deal; you’d far rather have a half-inch of toe-out than any amount of toe-in. Most sleds should be set to 1/8” to 1/4” of toe-out; the more there is, the more “relaxed” the steering response will tend to be.

# 6 – Keep all ball joints and steering linkage clean and lubricated. What good is a precision ski alignment if all of the steering linkage lets the skis flop around a half-inch (or more)? Ball joints should all rotate freely once broke in. Keep them lubricated with a quick shot of penetrating lube, especially after trailering.

# 7 – Make sure your front suspension springs are not too loose. Most riders make their adjustments to the front ski suspension springs with the skis on the ground. Problem is that when the front end is unloaded, they could have adjusted the springs so loose (with the skis on the ground) that the springs do not have enough tension to stay seated when the suspension is unloaded. Spring retainers and collars can fall off if the spring is too loose. With the skis in the air, make sure there is at least some amount of pre-tension to keep the springs seated.

# 8 – Try to keep both front suspension springs at the same setting. Either count the number of turns or measure the distance or count the threads, whatever works to keep both springs the same. This adjustment affects ski pressure during steady-throttle conditions, and can account for a sled darting one way or the other consistently. Better yet, get a set of matching bathroom scales and place one under each ski leg, paying special attention to exact placement of each. See how many pounds each ski shows, then swap the scales to make sure your data is correct. If they’re not the same, even though the springs measure or count out to the same setting, you can adjust one spring or the other so both skis “see” the same amount of pressure. It would surprise you how far off (dissimilar) springs can really be.

# 9 - Ski selection is a very personal choice. What one person likes in a ski character is about as different as our choices in a girlfriend (or boyfriend for you gals). Just because one person likes a ski type doesn’t make it right for you.

# 10 - Wider skis provide more flotation and stability. More ribs (or runners) make the ski less prone to tracking in previous ruts, thus reducing darting. If you’re looking for a balance between easy steering and cornering accuracy, try a set of skis with a “keel” curvature to the bottom profile.

# 11 – If your skis have down-turned outside edges, you will want to rotate your skis to even out the wear on the outside edges, as they will wear out faster than the inside edges. Some riders with 2001 RMKs reported excellent stability by swapping around their offset skis and running them with the wide part to the outside for trail riding, then swapping them back so the wide portion is on the inside for off-trail deep snow operation. (The new Ski-Doo offset skis only have a runner on the outside edge so this won’t work with the new Summit skis.)

# 12 – If you’re really into slot-car flat cornering or think your front end is a bit soft, you may want to investigate installing a heavier sway bar (actually an anti-sway bar). Sled makers have pretty much gone to smaller diameter sway bars in an attempt to provide increased ride comfort and bump compliance, with the side affect being body roll and ski lift. Many riders find the balance they personally want once they install a larger diameter sway bar.

# 13 – Take the time to fit your handlebars and throttle/brake controls to you, not some average-sized dummy that the factory sizes their machines to. Start out by sitting on the sled in a comfortable riding position, with your elbows where they usually are when you’re riding. Loosen the handlebar clamp bolts and try to adjust the bars fore and aft to see if you can find a comfortable position. If so, great, if not, figure out if they need to be higher, further back or slightly forward. Different riser blocks and clamps that allow more adjustability can be installed, just make sure your throttle and brake function is not affected (perform a full-right and full-left check of the handlebars to make sure no cables or wiring tightens or is affected).
Once you get the handlebars where they seem right, check the plane of your wrists and arms with your hands on the throttle and brake controls. Your wrists should be in the same plane as your arms (a straight line down your arms to your fingers). If your wrists are cocked up or down, adjust the throttle block or brake block to place your hands and the controls into a straighter plane for more comfortable operation. The final test, of course, is how these new adjustments feel when riding.

# 14 – Cold hands are more a function of inadequate wind protection and your hands getting wet (sweaty because they got too hot) than grip warmer function. If you find your hands getting cold, work on your technique of hand warmer control. If you crank up the hand warmers, your hands will get too hot, then they sweat, and once they’re wet it all goes downhill from there. You should only give them enough heat to keep from getting cold, you really don’t want to “feel” the heat. This will take some cycling of the switches and some work with the exact type of gloves, but once you get it down you’ll find your hands keep from getting cold much longer into the ride. Remember, if you can feel the heat, its too hot. You don’t want them hot or cold.
If your hands just plain get too cold right away, then work on glove selection and wind protection. A wider windshield does more for keeping hands warm than thicker gloves. Gloves that block the wind are better than gloves that are so thick they insulate your hands from the grip warmers. Also remember that grip warmers do take a while to initially heat up, so you want to pay attention and turn them down or off as soon as you detect any heat.

# 15 – If you do any type of off-trail riding, you may want to place a small rubber band under the kill switch – make sure the kill switch still functions, but the rubber band will keep you from accidentally depressing it when executing powder maneuvers. At worst, it will momentarily press down and pop right back up so you don’t loose momentum and end up stuck in the rhubarb.

# 16 – Make sure your carb float bowl vent lines are properly routed and attached to where they belong. Some sleds let the vent lines dangle below the carbs, some are run up to the handlebars, and some are now attached to the airbox. Whatever system your sled uses, your carb calibration is matched to this vent line location. This means that if you remove or change an airbox, the vent lines may also need to be changed or re-routed. Vent lines dictate float bowl pressure, which affects fuel flow. A vent line that is supposed to be attached into the airbox and is left dangling will “see” higher pressure at high speeds and result in higher float bowl pressure and higher fuel delivery (your sled will be slower). If your sled in stock form lets the vents dangle below the carbs, leave them there because your carb jetting takes this into account. If you should route them to the airbox, then you will reduce the bowl pressure at speed and reduce the fuel flow, which can lead to piston seizure, cylinder damage, and a bummed-out rider when his engine blows up.

# 17 – Keep your clutches clean. Maybe this should be tip number one. With all of the go-fast tips and parts in the world, they are all worthless if your clutches don’t get the power from the crankshaft to the track. This dubious job is performed by the Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) clutching arrangement used in snowmobiles. Factors like belt width, belt length, belt deflection, belt side clearance (primary), belt ride height (secondary), and belt compound have plenty to do with this, but the basic concept of keeping the clutches clean is equally important.
# 18 - The sheaves that grab the belt (both clutches) should be free of glaze (belt residue) and any form of oil. A good brake cleaner solvent works good here.

# 19 - The primary clutch should be blown out with an air compressor and blow-gun (use those safety glasses) until all the crap is blown free. All flyweights should be checked for free pivoting on their pins, and bushings inspected for wear. All rollers should be checked for fretting and cross-marks that indicate a problem. Rollers should rotate freely as well as not be sloppy, indicating excessive bushing wear. Past that, the primary clutch should be disassembled by a trained technician who can check the spider buttons and the moveable bushing. No lubricants should be used here other than the remaining film residue left from parts cleaning.

# 20 – Check the primary spring free length. These springs are known to “sag” quite often, resulting in a lower engagement rpm and/or lower shift rpm. On occasion primary springs can break, which normally will exhibit itself as a greatly reduced operating rpm.

# 21 - The secondary should also be clean and tight for smooth shifting. Check the slider buttons for deformation and wear, and the rollers in a roller clutch for slop and flat spots. Bushings should be clean, the method of cleaning depending on the bushing type. Newer fiber bushings are pretty service-free, but a good blast of air will do wonders. Clutches that use the outer diameter of the helix as a bushing (Ski-Doo and Polaris secondary clutches) should be checked for the tolerance between the helix outer diameter and bushing inner diameter; when this tolerance gets too big, the clutch will cock and bind, affecting power transfer.

# 22 – Have you ever seen how a secondary clutch can act like it is welded to the jackshaft? Learn from our past mistakes and do yourself a favor; remove your secondary clutch (carefully account for any spacer washers on the backside) and apply some anti-seize to the jackshaft. At a minimum, spread a dab of grease so corrosion won’t permanently weld your clutch to the jackshaft.

# 23 – Remove the chaincase cover and inspect the chain and gears for damage and proper tension. While you’re in there, clean out the stinky old oil and get some new lube in there. Finger tension the chain and tighten the locking adjuster. This is one of the most neglected areas on a sled, and can lead to catastrophic damage when extreme shock loads are applied (track spinning as your sled lands on the ground).

# 24 – Check all exhaust gaskets and joints for leaks. Depending on the location and type of gasket, you may have to replace the gasket, add some hi-temp silicone, or simply clean and re-seal the joint. Exhaust leaks can damage under-hood components, reduce exhaust system performance, and allow the intake to suck exhaust back into the engine which really kills off performance.

# 25 – Inspect all of the exhaust springs to make sure they’re still there. Vibration makes these springs break and fall off. If enough of them fall off, your exhaust system will come apart at the joints, and then your sled will really get loud. This is no fun when you’re 50 miles from anything and you don’t have spare springs. Borrow springs from other sled’s non-critical areas to get home in a pinch, or use some safety wire to hold the exhaust together long enough to get back.

# 26 – Removing and installing the airbox on sleds that require jetting changes is a pretty straight-forward process, but every now and then a gremlin can sneak into the process and surprise the heck out of you. The rubber boots that mate the airbox to the carbs should never be trusted; they can pop back inside of the airbox, and the worst is when they don’t wrap around the carb properly on the bottom of the carb. You can look at the rubber seal and it may look fine, but whenever possible you want to run your fingers around the carb and make sure there isn’t an air leak. The bottom side of the MAG carb is the tough one to see or feel. Sometimes a little dab of liquid (from inside the airbox) on the rubber sealing surface will make it slide around the carb easier instead of bunching up the rubber and screwing up the seal.

# 27 – When changing main jets in the carbs, pay special attention to whether your carbs use small spacing washers under the main jet. Sometimes this small washer comes out with the main jet, sometimes it stays up in the carb, sometimes it falls down into the float bowl, sometimes it falls out of the carb and drops down into never-never land under the engine. You need to know if your carbs have these or not. If they do, you need to keep a hand under the float bowl opening as you remove the jet to catch it if it falls out. If it stays up in the carb, don’t trust it to stay in there; you may need to lightly tap or shake the carb to get it out, maybe even have to take a small tool to coax it out. If you lose it and don’t get it re-installed, the main jet will not be positioned properly in relationship to the jet needle and the fuel level in the float bowl.

# 28 – Never pull on wires; only pull on connectors. If you pull on wires, they can and will come out of the connector and you’ll have an open circuit.

# 29 – Use di-electric grease in corrosion and moisture prone electrical connections. This will help to keep the juice flowing when and where it should be. Be on the lookout for black dust and residue in high voltage connectors, an indicator of arcing.

# 30 – Don’t over tighten spark plugs. Most everyone cranks in their spark plugs way too tight. For example, the Yamaha spec is only 14 foot pounds; that’s not very much.

# 31 – Never attempt to replace a drive belt unless the ignition key is off and/or the kill switch is pressed. If you should happen to rotate the clutch while trying to remove or install a drive belt, it can start the engine (much to the surprise of the person trying to get the belt in or out). This has happened, and can cause serious damage or injury.

# 32 – Never stand behind a sled that has the back end up off the ground with the track spinning. Make sure you are not the person holding the rear of a sled up when the track is being rotated either. Spinning tracks with the rear of the sled off the ground is an accident waiting to happen. Sometimes it is desirable to loosen up the track and drive belt with no load on the engine, but this should only be done with a safety stand, using low track speeds, and with no one behind the sled. Ice chunks can fly out, tracks can break a belt, weird things can happen, don’t expose yourself to the risk.

# 33 – Leaking intake valves (your reeds) are not the road to peak power. If your sled is fitted with carbon fiber reeds, it would be a good idea to occasionally check them for wear and damage. Their lighter weight leads to wicked tip velocity, which can break and chip away the tips.

# 34 – Did someone say brake pads? Did you know your sled even has brake pads? Not many get checked, and fewer get replaced before it’s metal-on-metal time. Most die from getting injection oil drooled all over them, then they don’t work too well. If you should shower your brake system with oil, you’d better get the pads cleaned and dried out. Most important is to keep an eye on pad material thickness. While we’re at it, when was the last time your brake fluid was replaced? That’s what we thought.

# 35 – Anytime you are disassembling something new on your sled, lay the parts out in the order of removal to help you get it back together right. The sooner you put it back together, the easier it will be. Taking some pictures with a digital camera is a cool way to see what you can’t remember too. If you really want to screw it up good, take your box of parts into a shop and expect a different person to put it all back together.

# 36 – Don’t wait for your “low oil light” to come on before adding oil. Never, never, never. Chances are the light is too dim to see in bright sunlight, the sensor won’t tell the light to come on, or you are doing all you can to hang on and simply don’t have time to look at silly little indicators. Pistons and cylinders are not that cheap; oil and time are.

# 37 – The amount of carbon in your combustion chamber and exhaust system has more to do with your carb jetting than it does the exact type of oil you’re using, but both do affect it. It is wise to periodically remove the exhaust manifold and check the amount of carbon build-up; it can get to the point that it partially blocks the exhaust port and restricts airflow. This is more common with rich jetting and less expensive oils.

# 38 – Don’t let someone scare you into the myth that you can’t mix oils in your injection tank. While it is a good idea to not pour in a different oil every time you fill the tank, the possibility of causing a problem when using name brand oils is actually very rare. If you find yourself needing more oil to make it back to your supply, don’t worry about adding a different brand as long it is a quality oil. We’re talking about the OEM oils (Polaris, Yamaha, Ski-Doo, Arctic Cat) and good aftermarket oils (Amsoil, Torco, Maxima, etc.). One of the better performing inexpensive petroleum oils we’ve used for several years is Phillips Injex.
Tracks

# 39 - If you’re going to stud a track, Arctic Cat tracks historically hold up the best. Many riders will remove the stock track from their sled and install a studded Arctic Cat track.

# 40 - Trails riders who want to leave the same track installed all year should not go with anything taller than 1.25”, based on current track design and construction.

# 41 - In many conditions, tracks with lugs shorter than 2” actually outperform the 2” tracks. Granted, in powder snow a 2” track will generally outperform a 1.75”, but you’d be surprised at how much riding is done in conditions where the shorter lug track is superior.

# 42 - Longer is not always better either. Again, it depends on the snow conditions. Snow with little or no base is ideal for longer tracks; conditions where flotation is critical. Other times, the length is more of a determent. It all depends on the conditions.

# 43 - The biggest single cause of track damage is track spin. Heat is #2 in our book. Anytime your track is spinning, it is prone to tearing a lug off. This includes loading sleds onto a trailer, spinning on the trail, or off-trail riding where a spinning track catches a log, stump or rock. A spinning track is track damage just waiting to happen.

# 44 - When conditions turn foul for hyfax, you need to be more concerned with your track than the hyfax. Many riders say that all they’re going to do is melt down a set of hyfax by riding in these ice-hard or low snow conditions. Wrong. If the hyfax gets so hot that you’re wasting a set in 100 miles, your track is also getting hot internally; too hot. It could be two years later that the track decides to exhibit signs of damage, and by that time you won’t remember that day way back when that you burned up a set of hyfax in a day.

# 45 - When it comes to balancing steering (amount of carbide or ski aggressiveness) to traction (number of studs), the amount of track on the ground is just as important as the aggressiveness of the track. This doesn’t only apply to studs and carbides. The steering must be balanced to the traction, and this could involve spring preload settings, track lug height, track length, and stud issues.

# 46 - The weight of the track is one of the single biggest “black holes” of horsepower. Think of a track as a great big flat tire. If we have 100 engine horsepower, about 92-93 of that is making its way down to the drive axle. Only 52-57 of that makes it to the rear axle. Rotating that big, heavy, out-of-round track sucks up that much power. Anything you do to reduce track rotating mass is well worth the exercise, but this must be balanced with the need for traction and flotation. Older sleds benefit most; installing a newer track that is both lighter and sporting a more aggressive lug pattern is one of the single biggest performance gains you can make.

# 47 - Different suspensions have different track tension requirements. Those who ride dirt bikes know full well how their chain gets tighter and looser as the suspension travels through its arc. A sled is similar; most riders run their tracks too tight, sucking up more valuable speed and power. You want the track tight enough to keep from ratcheting (drive axle cog slipping past the track) and to keep it from de-railing when side forces are applied (like hard cornering). Again, this depends more on the suspension design than the track. Anytime you make changes to the limiter strap length, you should re-check track tension. Follow manufacturer recommendations faithfully.
Engines

# 48 - The single most important piece of information you need as a sled tuner is to know what RPM your engine makes it power at. All the mods and clutching in the world is useless if you do not know this critical number.

# 49 - ANYTIME you make changes to the airflow of the engine, the RPM you should be clutching to needs to be verified. Again, you need to know what rpm you should be clutched at. This piece is info is primarily dependent on the exhaust system; if you change a pipe(s), silencer, you must know how this affects the power output and make appropriate clutching changes.

# 50 - Whenever the engine is placed under a heavier load, the engine’s need for fuel increases. This includes clutching changes, gearing changes, conditions (deep, wet heavy snow). Carb jetting (and clutching) that is ideal for a short-run on hardpack will not be ideal for longer runs in higher load conditions. As you clutch your sled “heavier”, the engine will need more fuel to maintain safe combustion temperatures.

# 51 - Stock sleds are all geared high for average conditions. Usually, a sled is geared for a long pull on a hard flat surface at very frigid conditions. If you don’t ride in such ideal conditions, you may find lower gearing to work better for your riding conditions. If you do make gearing changes, realize what set of conditions you may encounter that your sled is no longer calibrated for. Again, knowing the proper operating rpm of your engine is critical so you don’t fully shift out your clutches and the engine starts to over-rev.

# 52 – About 70% of the people are on 30% of the trails. Get out and away from the larger towns and you’ll find trails with fewer people. Better yet, go to a county where there simply isn’t a big town (or anywhere to stay) and you’ll find the least amount of people.

# 53 - The riding speed of a group should be dictated by the least experienced rider (in the group) that day. Just because you are an expert rider doesn’t mean the new guy is going to be able to keep up and do so safely. A good trail boss will know the riding ability of each and everyone who rides behind him so he can determine the appropriate speed and route of the day. Inexperienced riders do stupid things because they don’t know any better.
Chemicals

# 54 - WD-40 is a far better cleaning agent than it is a lubricating agent. Use it to clean parts and remove stickers, but do not use it as a final lube. Wipe away any residue or excess and then apply a real lubricant. Two of the best spray lubricants we’ve found are Maxima MPPL (Multi-Purpose Penetrant Lube) and Energy Release Penetrating Lube.

# 55 – Keeping your sled looking new is easier than trying to restore it. Two stand-out products for hoods and plastics are Maxima Spray & Shine (with Carnuba Wax) and Plexus. Spray and Shine is an awesome spray wax that can be sprayed right onto the sled, wiped in with a soft cotton towel (no paper products, wood fibers scratch big-time) and buffed with a clean towel for a deep shine and protective coating. Plexus also works good for hoods, but it far superior for Lexan and clear plastics like your windshield, goggles and face shield. Ideally, use Spray & Shine on the hood and areas where you want a glossy finish, Plexus on all other plastics.

# 56 – Belt dust and engine grime are also very easy to get rid of if you have the right kind of cleaner that doesn’t destroy plastic, rubber, and alloys. We use Maxima Clean-Up, a heavy-duty emulsion type degreaser that is one of the finest and safest cleaners we’ve found. It is awesome for metal parts, bellypans and tunnels, as well as painted parts (but it will strip away any wax). Spray it on and wipe it off, just keep it away from windshields, Lexan, fresh paint and oxidized metals. This stuff is totally awesome for foam air filters too, and really does a good job at fabric stains, chrome, and rubber parts. We order it (and use it) by the case.

# 57 – Nothing beats Rubbing Alcohol for surface prep for sticker or decal placement. Once a surface is clean, wipe it with Rubbing Alcohol to remove any residue, oil or wax and place your decal once the area is dry. Press the decal on and work out any air bubbles, and the adhesive has a fighting chance of sticking.

# 58 – Don’t use a material protectant like Armor All (TM) on your seat cover. This will make it super-slippery and really unsafe to ride! Many times a citrus degreaser will do an excellent job at cleaning the seat cover and not change the material tackiness.

# 59 – In the adhesive department are two worthy performers that can make unlikely participants stick together, including things like foam. One is Shoe Goo, and the other is called “Seal-All”. Shoe Goo can be found in just about every department or hardware store, and is a good sealant and glue for plastics and rubber. It works great for patching or sealing holes in belly pans too. Seal-All is in a little yellow and red tube and is magical stuff. It is very resistant to gas, oil, water, and just about everything in a snowmobile. From rebel pieces of airbox sealing foam to loose decals to tears and rips in seat covers, this stuff sticks where all others fail. This stuff is so good it can repair hoses and lines (along with some duct tape). Apply to a dry hose, wrap in duct tape, then apply another coating of Seal-All. Don’t take a whiff though, it’s got MEK in it which kills brain cells.
Tips #60-80 are “Things You Never Leave Without”

# 60 - Compass and GPS. Even if you consider yourself a master map reader and have a photographic memory of trails and intersections, a savvy trail boss will always carry some sort of navigational aid. Being fifty miles into the woods (or hills) at temperatures below zero should be enough of an explanation here. Most GPS units only indicate direction if you’re moving, so carrying an actual compass is still a good idea.

# 61 - Maps. Carry a map for the immediate area you’re riding in, but also for adjacent areas you might just wander into. You never know when the trail will lead you down a new path, or if you drop down off the mountain into a new valley or canyon. Maps with GPS co-ordinates are most helpful. We actually take maps with co-ordinates on them and transfer the information to the trail maps. If we’re ever questioning where we are, fire up the GPS and figure out which way you need to go to get out of the woods or to the nearest trail/road. This works great for ATV & dirt bike explorations too.

# 62 - Extra cash and a credit card. Whether it’s for gas late at night, food along the way, or the unexpected emergency (parts, lodging, whatever) it is always wise to carry both extra cash and a credit card. Snow conditions can change and you just might not get the range you had planned on.

# 63 - Spare drive belt. Never, and I mean never ride without at least one spare drive belt for every single sled in your group. A good group leader will verify this before blast-off. If I had $20 for every time a good ride was cut short by someone not bringing a spare belt for their sled…

# 64 - Spare spark plugs. It used to be that a set of NGK BR9-ES plugs was good enough, but now days many of the Arctic Cats and Polaris sleds spec a different spark plug. We used to substitute some different brands of plugs, but not any more. We only use the exact plug specified by the manufacturer. Only substitute a different spark plug when it is a matter of getting home or not.

# 65 - Tow rope. We carry a three-piece rope that ties to each of the spindles and to the tow sled. An extra piece of rope is also handy for those odd circumstances. Always remove the drive belt on the sled being towed. Towing out of the backcountry or deeper snow may require you to tow the sled out backwards; unbolt the skis and turn them around, and tow the dead sled out backwards. Tie the dead sled back bumper to back bumper of the tow sled. Once you get the track off the ground, it is far easier to tow through deep snow.

# 66 - Duct Tape. Wonderful for face protection, goggle repairs, holding broken windshields and hoods together, we’ve even used it to hold together a jacket with a broken zipper.

# 67 - Zip ties (cable ties). These are real handy for all sorts of odd repairs.

# 68 - Pocket Multi-tool (Leatherman or Kershaw tool). This way you’ve got many of the basic tool functions covered, even if you’re too cheap or lazy to carry a real tool kit.

# 69 - Waterproof matches or lighter. When it’s cold and dark, a fire can save your life.

# 70 - Spare gloves. This has many times been a major blessing to have a spare set of gloves. Digging out stuck sleds, dropping a sled into a slough or water, wiping rain off the goggles, your gloves can get wet in many ways. If your hands get wet and cold, you’re in a bad predicament. Put your spare gloves into a quart Ziplock freezer bag and suck or press all the air out of the bag before sealing; this will allow you to carry them in a minimal amount of space and keep them dry.

# 71 - Spare exhaust springs and/or wire. Many times we’ve found broken exhaust springs out on the trail. Having spares is really nice, but a piece of wire can also save the day. Use the pliers on your Multi-tool (Kershaw or Leatherman) to install the springs.

# 72 - Isopropyl alcohol. Someone in your group will seem to foul plugs, but a new plug doesn’t take care of the problem for very long. Water in the carbs and combustion chamber doesn’t burn too well, and it doesn’t matter if it is in the gas or is being sucked into the airbox. Add some iso to the gas, and in a few miles the sled all of a sudden comes alive. We see this several times each year, and can not believe how many riders do not carry iso at all times.

# 73 - Spare goggles. Not that you’re going to lose or damage your pair, this is for changing light conditions. Dark goggles for bright light, amber for low light, and clear for darkness. Better yet, get a “Snap-On” system from Pro-Vue. This way you have a clear base goggle, and you can snap on lenses of any color as conditions change.

# 74 - Protective gear. It used to be that a helmet was good enough. Now we ride with all kinds of protective gear, including a helmet, gloves, eye protection, leather boots, and chest protection (TekVest). We’re not racing, but we recognize how easy it is to break a rib falling on a ski tip at 2 mph (or not moving at all).

# 75 - Avalanche beacon, probe & shovel. If we’re in the backcountry, this is as important as any other gear. Carry them, practice with them, and know how to use them. Digging someone out when they’re six feet under the snow is no fun with your hands; that is if you know where to start digging.

# 76 - Water. Forget all the other liquids, carry water. Riders who stay well hydrated have greater endurance. Every organ and muscle in your body will thank you for a consistent water intake through out the day. Load up on water before you take off for greater range.

# 77 - Ibuprofen. This is the best muscle preventative medicine available. The key is to take it before, during and after strenuous riding to prevent muscle tearing and soreness.

# 78 - Energy bars. This can mean Snickers, granola, whatever. Having some form of energy can save the day when you become tired and fatigued.

# 79 – Tool Kit. No, that little bag of tools that your sled came with won’t cut it. Assemble a set of tools for your sled that has the things you’ll need for common trailside adjustments and repairs. Wrenches should be able to deal with suspension bolts, track tension and alignment, suspension adjustments, loose throttle and/or brake blocks, loose handlebars, loose ski runners.