One corner that gets cut by many tuners involves the re-use of many of the hardware parts (nuts, bolts, cotter pins) when performing clutch...

One corner that gets cut by many tuners involves the re-use of many of the hardware parts (nuts, bolts, cotter pins) when performing clutch service. Many of these smaller fasteners are specified for replacement during re-assembly. Do you know why? Just image what happens when a re-used cotter pin breaks inside of a clutch spinning at 8,000 RPM!

One of the most abused in this category are the cotter pins that retain the pins at the end of the Ski-Doo TRA clutch arms. If you ever swap or have these pins out, do yourself a favor and get some new ones to have on hand. Part #732 958 001.

Many times the bolts and nuts that keep the flyweights in place are specified for replacement. Be aware of the safety reasons these parts are listed for using new instead of used. Reference the appropriate service manual for your sled to learn which parts should not be re-used.

If you own or are getting one of the Arctic Cat T-660 Turbo models, you know or will soon learn the advantages of not having to add injection oil on a daily basis. But on the flip side, you do have to deal with more gradual oil consumption and the replacement of the oil and filter, just like any other 4-stroke.

When checking the oil level on these models, you’re supposed to pull the dipstick out only so far and wait for thirty seconds for all of the oil to drain, then wipe it clean, insert and remove the dipstick and read the oil level. You want the oil level to be between the two marks on the dipstick. Realize that it takes 27 ounces to bring the oil level all the way from the bottom mark to the top mark. Ideally, just below the top mark so it’ll be good for the longest period of time, but anywhere between the two marks is acceptable for operation.

Life can be made much easier if you get a new belly pan plug and the Arctic Cat filter wrench #0644-389. The belly pan plugs are pretty cheesy, but if you’re careful you can reuse them; for how long is a matter of debate, so get a spare. A putty knife seems to be the best way to get them out with the least amount of damage.

Three quarts is the initial fill spec, so have four quarts on hand. Use cold-spec four stroke oil, Arctic Cat calls for their 0W30 but pay attention to the temperature/viscosity chart. You should run thinner oil in the early, colder part of the season then switch over to a thicker oil as the season gets warmer. One oil viscosity is not specified all the way from –30 to +30. The oil and filter should be changed after the first 200-500 miles, and then every 2000 miles or before prolonged storage.

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